Drinking The World

photo by Dan Peterson

JIM MEEHAN is a world-renowned, award-winning Mixologist & spirits expert. Bar manager at PDT NYC, he also edits "Food & Wine Cocktails 2007 & 2008" and the latest and best version of the best selling Mr. Boston Official Bartender’s Guide.

JMF: Do you use any North American fruit spirits in your cocktails?

JM: Yes, I've used Clear Creek Eau de Vies in at least one cocktail on every menu for the last year. We always have an Apple Brandy drink (or 3) on our menu from October till March. We carry Germain-Robin Brandy, but Cognac is our go-to brandy. If I opened a PDT in California, I would mix with G-R.

Follow up:

JMF: How many have you tried?

JM: I haven't counted, but for me, Eau-de-Vie is the most complex and beguiling sprit. I'm not a distiller, but I imagine it's the most difficult spirit to make. In all honesty, Hans Reisetbauer is the benchmark I measure all other fruit brandies: and I haven't tried an eau de vie that comes close to matching the flavors captured in his spirits.

JMF: What are your thoughts on artisanal fruit brandy and spirits made in North America?

JM: It all comes down to the fruit. American fruit has been genetically modified to favor looks over taste. It can sit in the grocery store for two weeks and still look tempting to a customer. You buy it, take it home and eat it, and it has no flavor. It's not like this everywhere. The best fruit brandies I've tasted (in Hungary (palinka) and from Hans in Austria) are distilled from wild fruit. If there's any wild fruit left in this country, someone needs to set up a still next to it.

JMF: How well are they selling?

JM: Terribly. I've practically made it a personal goal to get Americans to appreciate the taste of brandy: from Kirschwasser to Cognac. At this point, they just don't get it.

JMF: What do you think are the best ones available?

JM: Germain-Robin Alembic Brandies and Clear Creek Eau de Vie's stand head and shoulder above the crowd for me.

JMF: How much does the general public know about them?

JM: In California and Oregon, a good deal. At this point, the micro-distillery movement is a regional trend subject to supply and demand and resources available to market the products. A well made brandy also costs more than other spirits, so there are economic barriers involved.

JMF: Who are the top experts on them?

JM: I don't even know. going back to my last sentence: there is no money spent on marketing, advertising or education in this area of the world. The Cognac houses do a lot of work educating their customers, and that is where most knowledge about brandy comes from.

JMF: What is important about them?

JM: Applejack may be America's first spirit and that's important to remember and preserve. The lack of wild fruit available to distill world class eau de vie says a lot about the state of the environment and certainly encourages a closer look at the politics of planting. If eau-de-vie is the most challenging spirit to distill, then who has enough pride to compete?